After landing on the continent this morning, we headed up the Ererra Channel towards Danno Island. We had been warned that another ship had been in the area this morning and had not been able to do any landings because the winds were just too strong (130 km/h winds). We had to make our way back up that direction anyways, so the Expedition leader (Susan) and the Captain, decided to keep going and see what would happen.
Ererra Channel - beautiful. But that wasn't the really exciting thing. The really exciting thing was the sea ice. The thing about sea ice is that is should have been long gone in this area at this time of year. Susan came over the PA to announce that everybody should get out to see it. They had no idea where it had come from and broken up, but this was a bonus (we've realised we are hearing this a lot, and I don't know how much is the truth, but I'll take it no matter what, I am just so lucky to even get to see this stuff!). So sea ice. I'll just say, I don't think I realised that I had missed seeing something until I saw it. It was like the pictures. Unlike the other ice we had been seeing, which was freshwater ice that had broken away from glaciers, sea ice is frozen sea water and it is sea ice that sustains the entire amazing echo system in Antarctica. When sea ice breaks up, there is a layer in there that is full of sea brine. There is a certain type of algae that then feeds on the sea brine. And then krill feed on the algae. And then everything feeds on krill (everything!). So, sea ice. It's really really important. And here's my climate change tidbit. The sea ice is disappearing with the temperature increases of the coastal areas of Antarctica (the actual continent is actually getting colder). But with the sea ice disappearing, it means the brine is disappearing and then the algae and then the krill and then all the other animals - whales, penguins, seals. So yeah, the sea ice.
Sea ice is the flat stuff. An iceberg is that big thing in the back.
Ok, so we are traveling along the Ererra Channel and Susan comes on over the PA again and announces that we are going to have to make a u-turn. Although we are traveling on an icebreaker, the sea ice and icebergs ahead are just too much of a risk, and so the Captain has decided to take an alternate route. The cool thing about this was that during the u-turn, we also got to see the ship doing a little ice breaking which was interesting (and a little disconcerting).
And then we saw penguins on the sea ice. Sorry for the lack of clarity in the next photo, I didn't have my long lens with me, but I love the leaping penguin, so this is cropped a lot.
As I said, there wasn't just sea ice in the area, there were also some big bergs. Very cool bergs.
And then there was a berg directly in front of the ship. Luckily we have an amazing captain and he sorted this situation out before it turned into a titanic moment. But all those people don't look so concerned, which I found interesting.
Ok, after our small detour, we were on to Georges Point on Ronge Island. Not the original plan, but I thought it was great. When we were pulling up in the zodiacs to the landing, I noticed that there were a lot of penguin highways. I think this was probably the best penguin highway place. Because the snow is actually pretty soft, they do what we do, follow the path of least resistance, which would mean the one somebody else flattened out. They even seemed to have the passing lanes sorted out (they drive on the right side of the highway).
On Ronge Island, we were back to both gentoo and chinstrap penguins.
I just couldn't get over the penguin highways and how organized they seemed.
Humans apparently travel in a similar manner. No, this was actually very much on purpose. We had to be careful not to step in the penguin highways as our big footprints would be very difficult to get through with their little feet, so John made a human highway alongside the penguin highways.
After hanging out with the penguins for awhile, we were off to another zodiac cruise. Love the bergs.
And I finally clued in that I have an underwater camera. As there were no leopard seals around, I could stick my hand in the very cold water for a bit and got some underwater iceberg shots. This next one is a shot of the iceberg above. Pretty cool. Wish I had clued in earlier.
We then went to explore the sea ice a bit (like the penguins).
And then, Scott (our fantastic Canadian zodiac driver), said, I'm going to check the ice, and kinda rammed the zodiac into one of the chunks of sea ice. He drove the front right up onto the ice and told us we could hop out. On the drifting sea ice. This photo is of another zodiac from our chunk of sea ice.
We made ice angels?
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| Susanne, Michelle and me |
Next one is a photo of another group on the ice. Pretty cool. As we were standing there, you could tell that we were drifting. It was really neat.
I also got to add a new animal to my tracking capabilities. This would be the belly-slide tracks of a penguin. You can see both feet and flipper tracks, and obviously belly.
After the zodiac tour, it was a quick turn around. We all had to get dressed up. Put on our best clothes (which was a little difficult as my luggage consists of a whole lot of merino wool and sweat pants). The penguins were much more appropriately dressed. Where is the strangest place that you have attended a wedding? For me, it is now Antarctica. It was actually really cool. Todd and Lise are a lovely Canadian couple. Todd works for G-adventures (our tour company) in Toronto. Lise is a designer. They actually had already gotten married with friends and family in Costa Rica. But they were on their honeymoon and the crew took advantage of the opportunity and we had another wedding. It was fantastic. And I am super impressed that Lise survived in that dress (it was still a little chilly).
We spent the evening with a reception and dance. Lise tossed the bouquet (and it didn't land in the ocean). It was a beautiful evening and I hope really special for Todd and Lise.
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