Beyond Dhaka

So, as promised earlier, John and I ventured out into the Bangladesh beyond Dhaka, although really not all that far, only 23 km, it just took an hour and a half. I am thoroughly tired of hearing horns honking for no apparent reason now too. Anyways, we went to the Sonargaon area which is where the original capital city was. I have to say, Bangladesh needs a little work when it comes to restoration and/or upkeep of historic buildings. We headed first to Sadarbari, which is an old rajbari (basically an estate). It was quite lovely on the outside, and some of the 'folk-art' inside the 'museum' was interesting, but really it was the exterior that was more interesting. Although, I did like the treasure chests, they were cool. We also seemed to be turning into the actual exhibit, as everyone wanted to know where we were from and how we liked Bangladesh. Quite funny. Anyways, we wandered around the grounds for a bit. John bought some weird, creepy looking doll thing. Oh, and then we came upon this little thing of kids rides, although if I were a parent, there is no way my kid would be getting on one of these things, it makes Whoop-up Days rides look like a walk in the park. Then it was time to explore a little, our poor driver (from the Foundation), thought we were crazy I'm sure. Our trusty lonely planet, was not so helpful with the maps, and any suggestion of being able to see Bangladesh as a backpacker is completely false. The town of Painam Nagar was very cool, but again left something to be desired on upkeep. Trying to find the Tall Shiva Shrine (John's check list) consisted of trapsing through a few plants and some mud and me being ever so cautious, sure that a cobra is going to appear at any moment. I'm with Indy...I hate snakes. Luckily, all we got was the Shrine and some neat pictures. Again, forcing our driver to ask a lot of people (they are everywhere, even in rural Bangladesh), we went over to the Goaldi Mosque which dates to 1519. It has made it a bit better than the old capital, and is still all in one piece, I guess to be taken care of, you must be religious. Adventuring some more, and listening to LP, we crossed the highway to Mograpara to see the Tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah, the oldest Muslim monument in Bangladesh. Sounds good no? No, it is boring. The wedding welcome arches on the other hand, were much more interesting and worth the trip across the highway. We decided to head back to Dhaka, but as a treat for surviving the heat and humidity, we had a late lunch at A&W. Yummo. Had a work out tonight, and a nice chat with a teacher from Winnipeg, who also agrees, Bangladesh gives you a very odd understanding of the world and after a year here, he still is baffled by some of the behaviour (the staring never ceases). Oh, speaking of staring, funny story today, there were 5 guys walking along, John and I were also walking. They all kinda stopped and looked at us for a minute. 4 continued walking. One stayed and stared as I walked by for quite some time as all his friends left him. Again, John thought this was really funny, so he went and said hello to the guy. Guy then stopped staring and walked away. We also had our pictures taken numerous times today on cell phones. So yeah, that's about it. Bed time, and off to work tomorrow morning. 

A new flat and a day at the club

So not a whole lot to report. We moved into the new place on Thursday. We are living with Rowley (our IT guy), his wife and their two kids (I can't remember his wife or daughter's names right now, his son who is 3 is Elham). First night was a bit rough, the power went out and the back up generator in my room decided not to kick in for the fan, it's amazing how horribly hot it can get in just a few minutes. But finally after an hour, it was back on, and I actually got a pretty good sleep. We had breakfast with them yesterday morning, breakfast here has a lot more meat, which isn't my favourite. There was liver yesterday (yuck). Needless to say, I did not try that. We spent pretty much all of yesterday at the Canadian Club. It was so hot, so lots of time by the pool, worked out, had a beer and played some pool. Anyways, today we are venturing beyond Dhaka which could prove interesting. Will have some pictures for you...

An office is an office

So, as you can probably tell, I have been sitting in the office a lot recently. So nothing much to report. I am working on two projects right now, one is Legal Empowerment of Women and Disadvantaged Groups and the other is Free Election and Institutional Reforms Project. Both are pretty interesting. The legal empowerment project is just winding up and I am working on finishing up some manuals for NGOs. The election group is really starting to get going again on a new chapter. Voter registration is finishing up, and we are gearing up for the first elections (City Corporation elections in 4 cities). Really, we are hoping to test out our civic and voter education systems and our election monitoring stuff on the smaller scale before having to go all out with Parliamentary elections in December (hopefully). 

Other big news - John and I move to a flat today, which will be nice. We are moving in with a colleague and his family. He lives in the nicest part of Dhaka, in amongst all the embassies. It will be about a 15 minute Rickshaw ride to work everyday, but that's fine, and the Canadian Club is pretty much the halfway point. So that is exciting, plus it's the weekend! I know I am still working 5 days a week, but ending the week on Thursday seems like a nice little luxury. So, yeah, an office is an office, but hopefully get out into the field next week. Hopefully I will have a fun-filled exciting weekend and have lots of Blog stuff. Until then....

Oh and for all of you who are trying the press 219, I am sorry if it doesn't work. Riz, I don't think Foxy will get the hang of it unfortunately, she's smart, but the lack of opposable thumbs is an issue. 

Out and About in Old Dhaka

So we headed out to Old Dhaka yesterday, which was kinda intimidating. We took a cab down, which took almost an hour and then arrived at Sadarghat Boat Terminal, where we had no problem finding somebody to take us out on a boat. It was a pretty neat thing to see. All the ships being built and all these people employed by the shipping industry. We saw one ferry absolutely packed, and it makes you realize a little more why there are so many sinking boats here. Anyways, our timing wasn't great as it was 12:15 when we started, and I almost died of heat and sun. Way too hot. Our boat guides then agreed to take us over to Ahsan Manzil (the Pink Palace). And as you can see - it is very pink. It was quite impressive. But in taking us over there, we then had guides for the day - oops, but it was actually probably a good idea, the roads in Old Dhaka are extremely confusing. So, we then headed for some food, which I am not regretting slightly, not feeling so hot last night, or today. But it was cool in the restaurant, which was much needed. So we had our political/economic tour in the morning, and it was off to the religious hot spots in the afternoon, and I have to say they were very impressive. We stopped at the Hindu temple, the Armenian Church (17th C.), the Sitara Mosque (Star Mosque) and another mosque that I can't remember the name of. It is amazing how welcoming everyone was. The Armenian church from the outside was absolutely beautiful, and because it is walled, there is a serenity in the yard that I didn't think existed in Dhaka. The caretaker was extremely welcoming and showed us around a little. There was also a very funny goat (I mehhhed at him Robin and he mehhhhed back). Anyways, the Star Mosque was also amazing. This beautiful tile work was so impressive. We started to attract a crowd at this point. No matter where you go, kids love seeing pictures of themselves. We were welcomed into the Mosque to see more of the tile work and again, everyone was fantastic. At the last mosque, we attracted more children, and John was invited to play a little cricket, he got schooled by 9 year olds though. They were good. Finally we headed over to Bangsal Rd. where we got to see Rickshaws being made, which is a never ending job in Dhaka as there are so many of them. We had adventured around in a rickshaw for most of the day, and it was kinda neat to see them being made. Finally, we caught a baby taxi home, which was a rather harrowing experience. About 10 minutes from home, it started to pour. It was a crazy down pour which ended up lasting well into the evening, so last night was chilling at the hotel. Oh, I forgot, we almost got in our first rickshaw accident. In a rickshaw jam, our driver decided he would pick up a little speed, and then he couldn't stop in time and we ran right into the back of the one in front of us, almost launching both John and I to the pavement, but we both caught ourselves, and survived the experience. It was a great day. I was stared at constantly, and had a few men do the full on whip lash look, to John's great amusement. So getting a little more used to it, but sometimes you just want to turn around and stare right back at them. Ok, breakfast time, and then off to work. Miss you all! 

Out on a Dhaka adventure...kinda.

So, yesterday was a pretty big day. John and I ventured beyond our little confines of Road 50 and into the world of Gulshan. We headed out in the morning in search of running shoes for John. Who knew that Bata shoes may be one of Canada's greatest exports. I was kinda disappointed to know that I have big feet by Bangladeshi standards and couldn't find any sandals. But John got two new pairs of shoes. We then went to pick up gym stuff from the hotel and then headed out on our first Rickshaw adventure to the Canadian Club. We have had this guy bugging us every time we leave the hotel or work, asking us if we want a rickshaw, following us if we walk anywhere, so finally he got his dream and we got a ride. His name is Rickshaw Wallah Ali. His rickshaw is in desperate need of repair. It was an interesting experience. John and I were nicely jammed in there, but felt that every turn or stop, one of us would go tumbling out. I wish I had had my camera with me, but I forgot. Anyways, we finally got our memberships sorted out with Jalal, who may be one of the nicest people I have met. The gym facility is pretty awesome. Pretty much all new machines, free weights galore, just needs some more stretching mats. I had a good work out and then we hung out by the pool, read and had some lunch. It is nice to be in a place where I can wear a tank top without being stared at, or even worse. We then headed back to Aarong, the store that I got my clothes. I picked up two more Salwaar Kameez, but with the wide leg this time. Have to laugh cause they are like Hammer Pants.....da na na na, na na Can't touch this. Anyways, they make me laugh, but they are comfy - I know Stacy and Clinton say that is not excuse to dress badly, but what if everyone has them on?

So back to the hotel for a little rest time, and then Kim (head of the Asia Foundation in Bangladesh) and his wife Muna picked us up to head to Russell's house (another colleague).  We had a drink there, met one of Russell's sons, whose prom it was last night and chatted for a bit. There were three other people with us. The head of USAID in Bangladesh, a Bengali-Canadian woman whose husband is a hot shot business man here, and Forest, the man who knows everything and everyone in the development community in South and South-East Asia. Anyways, we then headed to the Shilpakala Academy which is apparently like their national performing arts center. We were at a Korean dance performance hosted by the Korean embassy. It was funny, we were ushered in as very important people, and were sitting in amongst all the people from the Bengali government and all the ambassadors. It was strange. 

Ok, so then they start announcing all these people. There are tv camera's everywhere, which is apparently a very Bengladeshi thing. There lights are on you all the time. Very annoying. Then everybody does their speeches...Ali is getting bored. Finally the dancing starts, and I realise the tv camera's are still going, as well there are now print photographers up at the edge of the stage taking pictures. There are people in the audience with video cameras. This country is crazy. Then between each dance, we had this man tell us what each dance was about and what we should feel about it....this exquisite demonstration of ability should evoke feelings of love....it was ridiculous. Plus he didn't speak English very well, so it took forever. The Bengali-Canadian woman was sitting next to me, and we both got the giggles. Apparently this is not a normal thing to have happen at the theatre here, but it was just so funny. Then, the other thing, nobody turned off their cell phones. The guy behind us, actually answered his, and then accidently pressed speaker phone and all you can here is "Hello? Hello? Hello?" which made me laugh a little more. The performance was actually quite impressive, especially the drumming. But with all the other stuff going on around, it was hard to concentrate. 

Anyways, we then headed for a Korean restaurant, which was fitting. It was really good. Lots of conversation and laughs. Anyways, it was a great day, very entertaining in general. Who knows what today will bring.

Another day at the office and children in cages.

So it really was another day at the office (that is John outside the office). John and I headed out to look at a possible flat, but it didn't work out. But, on the drive back to the Foundation, we saw these very strange vehicles. They reminded me of the scary man in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, you know the one who locks up the little children. But yeah, it was like a caged rickshaw...very strange. 

This afternoon proved very interesting with two meetings, the first with DFID (British Development Agency) and the second with PACOM (US military group). Very interesting, such different approaches and emphasis with each group. DFID was all about governance and blah blah (stuff that I am actually interested in) and PACOM is all about community policing, interesting but not my thing. The Asia Foundation does both, but differently than both of the individual organizations. Yeah, it was just an interesting afternoon of comparison. Sitting in on the meeting, not contributing anything yet, just learning, and trying to soak some of it up. Anyways, John and I ventured out into the scary world of Gulshan to find non hotel dinner. It was interesting for sure. Our directions may not have been the best. Russell gave us an it might be the second, might be the third, which is kinda understandable when you never drive yourself. Anyways, we ventured, got offered a million rickshaw rides and I am getting more used to being stared at all the time. Anyways, we had Japanese tonight, which was a nice break from spicy. Oh, we also need a place to live here in Gulshan, so if you hear of anything, let me know. 

Oh, and I am pretty sure I am going to be addicted to tea by the time I get back, either that or I will never want it again. Sayeed never stops with the tea, but it's all good. 

Press 219 for Tea

So one of the coolest things about work so far is that if you dial 219, Syed shows up at your desk with tea the way you like it... lemon tea, little sugar please. I shouldn't say it's the coolest thing, but it is pretty nice. Anyways, today was the second day at the office and consisted of a lot of reading, a meeting with the National Youth Forum, where they got in trouble from Sheela for messing up with their funding, and a meeting with the head staff including Farouk, our senior economist in going over the monthly poll the Foundation puts out testing the public perceptions and such regarding elections. Interesting what questions get asked, and how careful you have to be with wording, not to step on anyones toes. Another exciting thing today - I have my second bag! My feet are so happy to be out of running shoes and into sandals. It took a bit, had to go out to the airport, get clearance to go back into the secure area, then go through customs with my bag, and then out finally. Everyone was so nice and helpful, but it is funny, because nothing is done efficiently. 

Just thinking of other things I noticed today - traffic here is crazy (I seem to say that in every place I travel, but this is up there with the scariest). The cars, baby taxis and rickshaws have little awareness of anybody else and I have yet to see a car (other than the F

oundation cars) that don't have scrapes all along the sides. It is crazy! I was also thinking of how it doesn't smell. Africa had a very distinct smell, but I haven't noticed that here, which is nice. 

Also, I wore one of my Salwar Kameez today and got so many compliments. I feel like I am wearing pajamas, but everyone seems very pleased with me dressing like a Bengladeshi woman. Too funny. But yes, they are very comfy. Ok, I am off to sleep, hopefully a full night this time...

A found bag, some new clothes and my first day of work

So, this morning once I got myself sorted a little, I headed over to the Asia Foundation where I will be working for the summer. I was introduced to everybody, but can't remember hardly any of the names, I need a list with pictures (The Dal Legal Who sets a high standard). Anyways, I also met John and then the two of us sat down with Kim, Jerome and Russell to kind of outline what the Asia Foundation does, some of the different projects we might be interested in, and some logistics stuff. It's pretty interesting. One of the projects I am interested in is called Leaders of Influence, where they take leaders from different religious groups, but mainly Imams, and try to introduce them to the more secular organizations, with the aim of building bridges in civil society, in order to demand government accountability (I probably didn't word that the best, but I am tired). Anyways, there is a deep distrust of secular groups by the religious groups, and vice versa, and this program is meant to try to bridge that gap a little. So yeah, the election stuff is also interesting. The Foundation, along with other groups, has been trying to help the interim government update the voter list, which in a country of 160 million, is pretty difficult. So yeah, there are lots of possible projects, right now John and I are both just getting our feet wet and doing quite a bit of reading of annual reports of the projects. We are hopefully going to get out in the field quite a bit in the next couple months, which should be good too. John and I headed over to the High Commission to register ourselves, and as well to the Canadian Club to get our memberships set up. I am looking forward to some time there, nice gym facilities and a very nice outdoor pool. We also went out shopping for a bit. I bought two Salwar Kameez and a new tunic. I will die of heat here, but I also have to have 'appropriate' clothing. After shopping, we got back to the office, where Kim told me they found my bag in Hong Kong, so now we just wait until it gets here. I can't wait for non-running shoes shoes. Project for tonight - try to get my sleep schedule a little more normal for here.

Crying babies, too many hours in a plane and no luggage

So, as you can tell from the title, it's been a rocky start. I am here safe and sound though, but lacking a change of clothes, gross. It's hot here already (26 at 8:30) and I am pretty sure I am going to melt while I am here. Andre on the other hand was happy in Vancouver and is still happy here in Dhaka. He arrived with all his luggage (which is none) and is enjoying the tropical weather.I didn't get much of a sense for the city last night, as it was 2:30 am by the time I got away from the airport, so no traffic and very little light, but today should be interesting. I am going to head down to the office in a little bit to meet everybody and should get to meet John at some point today too (his flight arrived early this morning). For those of you who don't know, John is the other student from University of Ottawa. Anyways, I need to get something to eat, so I will keep you all updated...