Monday, November 14, 2011

The rest of a Johannesburg weekend...

As I said in yesterday's post, there were a few things that I skipped out talking about from the weekend in Jo'burg. I arrived with Ellie on Friday night at the airport where we met up with Allison and Gloria (both CBA interns in Namibia). The plan was that I would drive the girls to the Gautrain station in Rosebank where they would catch the train to Pretoria. This would save them a bunch of money, avoiding the airport premium and would give me some company while navigating the chaos that is Johannesburg. It was a good plan. The execution of the plan turned out to be a little more difficult thanks to a little device I call Sheila. Sheila is what my family calls all GPS units. Unfortunately South African Sheila was terrible at her job. I had been warned to not listen to her when she told you to take the first exit from the airport highway as it would take you through a less than desirable area of town. Ok, I can do that. Well, little did we know that the new directions Sheila would choose would take us through the Alexandra area, the centre of xenophobic attacks in the not too distant past and another area that you want to avoid. We had seen a Gautrain station but once we also saw (and felt) a giant fire burning right next to the road, I quickly flipped a u-turn and got us out of there. I think Gloria and Allison were a little taken aback, I don't think Windhoek is quite the same as Jo'burg. We finally found the Rosebank station and I dropped the ladies there. I continued on to the Bram Fischer Memorial Lecture where I was going to meet Joseph. As our flight was late, I unfortunately missed the entire lecture, but fortunately made it there in time for the wine and cheese. We ended up spending a very interesting and entertaining evening with some clerks from the Constitutional Court and then headed back to Joseph's where I would be staying for the weekend. Saturday we picked Sabrina up at the bus station and made our way (very indirectly thanks to Sheila) to Constitution Hill. I talked about the prisons yesterday, but didn't talk about the actual Court. With the establishment of the Constitutional Court under the new constitution, it was decided that a new building needed to be built in order to house the highest court in the land. I must say, I think they did a wonderful job. The Court takes its place next to the Old Fort prison complex as a reminder of the past that the Bill of Rights looks to prevent from happening again. We were lucky to be shown around the building by a current clerk, Roanna, who happens to be a former CBA intern who has stayed on in South Africa. She was nice enough to take time from her Saturday and show us around. The most prominent thing about the Con-Court building is the art. Some of the art is a little beyond my understanding, but definitely creates conversation. The doors are these beautiful carved pieces that reflect the rights protected by the Bill of Rights, in the 11 official languages of South Africa, as well as in sign language and braille. The emblem of the Constitutional Court reflects the concept of justice under a tree also reflected throughout the building. It also includes eleven individuals under the tree and eleven branches. Not sure if this is reflecting language or the eleven judges of the court. And finally, you can also find the flag of South Africa in the emblem. The actual court room is very different feeling from ours in Canada; it feels much more accessible and less stuffy. I really liked the beaded flag hanging to the side. There is also a window that ribbons its way through the court. It looks out to ground level and signifies the transparency that the Court must succeed in achieving. One former justice apparently commented that he also liked that the window was blind to sex and race because as people's feet go by, you often can't tell to whom they belong. Apparently during week days, you often have children returning from school running by and some will crouch down and peek in during a hearing. I think I would get the giggles if I saw that. Because we had a private tour guide, we were able to see some of the behind the scenes things - like the judges deliberation room. I had to laugh at the patio heaters in the room, but the table and the mobile where just beautiful.We also got to see the judges' chambers which remind me of a little condominium complex. The security gates into the chambers are quite beautiful and all unique. Apparently contests were held for artists in order to determine much of the architectural art work that would be included in the building and these gates were just one of those contests. Each is unique and quite impressive. We popped through the library, which is an impressive place. Torn if I like this library or the SCC library back home better. I definitely liked the light here a lot, but I think I like the big, old tables at the SCC better. Six of one, half a dozen of the other. We finished our tour looking at some of the many many pieces of art on display. Apparently former Justice Sachs took a particular interest in the choice of works to be displayed in the Court and his touches can be found all over the place. It was a wonderful tour and I am very appreciative to Roanna for the behind the scenes look.
After lunch at a lovely restaurant at 44 Stanley, we were on our way to Soweto. Somehow Sheila was able to find this address without much difficulty. She is very unpredictable. Strange. Anyways, as I said yesterday, we went on a bike tour of Soweto. Our guide Thomas could not have been better. He took us through three areas of Soweto signifying the diversity within the township, from the very wealthy to the very poor. We started in Orlando West and looked across at Orlando East. We got a full lesson on football rivalries in the area and apparently I should be cheering for the Chiefs, not the Pirates (I didn't want to tell Thomas that football or soccer is one of the few sports that I really don't care for). Here, we were looking across to the Pirates Stadium.
We continued through the "middle class" area of Orlando West...I couldn't resist taking a picture of this bouncy castle. Safe no?From there we continued on to what used to be the hostels area where workers from the gold mines were housed. This area has a very interesting and at some points very violent history. It didn't look to me that the area had come that far from the past. The poverty was everywhere and everything that goes along with that, the garbage, the smell, all of it. The homes are small, with an entire block sharing the communal toilets. Some, but very few, have running water, although it appeared that virtually all homes now had access to electricity. As it was Saturday, there were lots of people around and lots of kids that I couldn't resist taking pictures of. Some of the kids pose a bit more than others. But the reality of their lives was something that I could not quite grasp; the poverty that they live in. Many are on the list for government housing, but if the list there is anything like it is in eThekwini (Durban's municipality), it will be decades before some of these families receive the adequate housing they are guaranteed under the Bill of Rights. I should also just say, that this is far from the worst - the informal settlements that we work with are not nearly this developed, but I will write about that some other time.We were invited into a shebeen (informal pub) where we were invited to try some local beer. Interesting. One gentleman was happy to hear my very few words of Zulu, no matter how poorly they were pronounced. The local beer comes in a container that looks like a milk carton to me, it also warns you not to drink and walk on the road. Not "don't drink and drive" but "don't drink and walk" (which is a warning I maybe should have paid more attention to later Saturday evening). We each tried some of the beer; it was ok. But I think more than a sip would have been too much for me. From there we travelled to the nicer area of Soweto. To the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Mandela House, both of which I wrote about . One thing I didn't mention was the wealth displayed around Mandela House and Archbishop Tutu's house. Parked along the road was a Porsche, an Aston Martin, many BMWs and many Mercedes. A stark contrast to the Soweto we had been in only moments before. It was a wonderful tour and I was glad that we were able to see Soweto in that way. Thanks Thomas!We returned to Jo'burg to meet up with the exam writing interns and headed out for a great dinner. Unfortunately part way through dinner the power went out. There were candles around, but my klutziness proved too much and I may have sprained my ankle. Again. Kinda a travel tradition. Ah well. It is healing decently well now, and no longer looks like there is an apple under my skin, but still. So dancing proved a little difficult for me that night, but we all had a great time and it was great to see everybody (10 interns in all).
I wrote about the Sunday trip to the Apartheid Museum yesterday and so will skip that. But I just wanted to give a big thanks to our host for the weekend - Joseph - who made an amazing breakfast for us Sunday morning and could not have been a better host. Thanks Joseph
So a very emotionally intense weekend for the most part, but I really enjoyed myself and am really glad that I was able to see so much in Johannesburg.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

You got to hang out with my wonderful friend Roanna?! I am jealous!